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Peak Mountain 3

Extreme Unction

FA Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Bill Robbins, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun climbing on an upside-down staircase, then an easy face. The crux is at the big roof followed by another short easy face. Very varied. To find this route, follow the first main Watchtower wall around to the right into a corner and look for the upside-down staircase between two large chimmneys.

Protection

There are many horizontal seams that will take small nuts or cams, and one small crack underneath the large roof.

Recently, several climbers have taken serious ground falls as a result of their gear pulling. There is adequate protection on this route that can be utilized, but may not be as straightforward as one may think. Doubling up on gear at the first roof is a common practice as is placing gear above the roof, coming back down for a rest before attempting the crux moves.