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Peak Mountain 3

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FA Ben Collett, Erik Rieger
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Description

There are a few ice flows located high above the Loch Vale cragging area. They've probably been climbed before. We climbed the obvious flow on the right after our planned route at Sky Pond didn't pan out. Ben suggested the name, since it's like a tame version of

Necrophilia

. It's worthwhile if you're desperate but not into the dead thing, or you could combine with the

NW gully

and other short climbs. The left-most flow is lower-angled.

Location

This is on the northern aspect of Thatchtop, directly above the Loch Vale cragging area. Approach as for

Deep Freeze

/

Necrophilia

up to the lake, but move left (east) across the moraine bench below those routes to reach the smears. It's easy to see from the trail if they're in or not.

Protection

We soloed the route, so there's no rap anchor. Build one or walk off skier's left down a technical and exposed gully. Protection would be thin on the first half, bring rock gear.


Routes in Loch Vale & uphill