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Peak Mountain 3

Prise de Fer

FA Perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan 1/29/11, perhaps not
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of

Dog House

, gains the east ridge of

The Saber

, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.

P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of

Dog House

to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of

Dog House

angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)

(Pitch one and two of

Dog House

can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the

Dog House

description for clarity)

P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)

P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)

P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)

P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)

Protection

Cams to 4 inches, stoppers, a few pins, large Hexes, maybe a stubby screw just in case.


Routes in Loch Vale & uphill