- Edit (TBD)
Prise de Fer
Description
Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of
Dog House
, gains the east ridge of
The Saber
, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.
P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of
Dog House
to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of
Dog House
angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)
(Pitch one and two of
Dog House
can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the
Dog House
description for clarity)
P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)
P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)
P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)
P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)
Protection
Cams to 4 inches, stoppers, a few pins, large Hexes, maybe a stubby screw just in case.
Routes in Loch Vale & uphill
- 2Prise de Fer5.7Trad · Mixed