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Peak Mountain 3

Magic Mushrooms

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Description

I had been eyeing this beautiful south face on the Buttress for some time looking for a path up. I could see these mushroom-like protrusions coming out of the smooth face but at the time I was not advanced enough to get to them so I looked for alternative routes. I came up with an approach that took me up and far right. Then, locking a foot into the huge crack at my feet, I reached far out to my left with both hands putting my body at a 45 degree angle. Now the scary part - cutting my anchoring foot loose and hoping I could hold on! After several tries I did and was then able to use one of the mushrooms for a foot and go from there! That was the crux for sure, but getting up, balanced, and completing the next moves to the top can be tricky for sure.That was all on top rope. Now the route should be trad-able with a bolt on the main face and the use of a bolt from High 5. Plenty of gear placement opportunities from the ground up till you get to the crux. There is where you need to clip the draw and to be safe, clip into the other one then finish at the anchors and chains above (same as High 5).For top rope: Either anchor off the top with cord or sling, or safety yourself into one of those anchors and use the quick links of the sport anchors.

Location

Main Wall: The Buttress south side: Start is anywhere below.

Protection

Lots of placement opportunities but some will require big stuff. Draws needed for bolts. Anchors and chain on top face. TR anchors on top.


Routes in Buttress


  1. 3
    Magic Mushrooms
    5.10c/d
    Tr · Trad