High 5

This is basically a V5 boulder problem 25+ feet off the ground! Hence the name High 5. Only three bolts to the anchor but the first one is a test of nerves since it's not stick-clippable. If you're an experienced climber, getting there and clipping in is the easy part - after that it’s a completely different story! This is the sixth sport route at Donation and the hardest so far. And although it's a relatively short send to the anchors, because it's overhung and scarce on feet, it makes for a muscle and heart pumper for sure!The grade is based on my 5' 6" frame and reach. You tall people might find it to be different and I ask that you please comment below if you do. I'm cool with a grade change if the consensus is something different.Ground start off-belay with a scramble up to the huge ledge/platform at the base of the buttress. Once there, have your belayer at the ready and work up to the first bolt on the underside of the buttress. I get there by climbing the block to the right then left hand on the Screaming Mimi rail and clipping with my right. I recommend an 18cm/medium length draw here to come out of the slight roof but you can use shorties from there.Back Story: Chris Winters of the Access Fund Conservation Team and I worked this one on top rope together in the fall of 2019 and it took both of us multiple times and lots of beta sharing to construct a doable path up this beast. I can still feel the excitement belaying Chris as he took my last suggested beta to successfully pull up and out of the crux. I gave out a rebel yell that could be heard all the way to the town of Huntingdon! We had finally unlocked the crux! Since then I’ve worked it, refined it, and added a couple new moves to better suit my smaller frame and reach. Regardless, I don't always make it and I'm always out of breath at the top. The FA on lead was a redpoint and my first .12 lead!!!

High 5

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Protection

Routes in Buttress