El Rancho

Peanuts, sticky floors, cheep beers, and girls looking to make bad decisions. You'd be hard pressed to find a climber in DGO who hasn't had a night of fun and fornication at this classic dive bar.

With no defined crux and zero fluff climbing, this route comes down to pure endurance. Expect big, thuggy moves on mostly good holds with little opportunity for rest. Begin by squeezing your way out the prominent arete feature. Fight your way into the underclings in the roof and transition onto the beautiful headwall of bad slopers and incut edges. With a little traffic, I think this will clean up into a four star route.

This is the old abandoned project listed in the guidebook as a 5.13 project. Based on the condition the route was in when I started working on it, I do believe I made the first free ascent. Just to make the route safe and climbable, I had to add one bolt, move two exiting bolts, and move the anchors down about 15 feet. If anyone has more information on the history of this route, I would love to know.

This route begins up the very prominent arete feature smack dab in the middle of the Roof Wall, 20 feet to the right of

Huffy

.

7 bolts with fixed anchors. Knee pads are very helpful.