A Gentlehoe

Are you looking for a big steep .12a? Well now Cascade's got one! Thuggy and juggy is the name of the game on this route.

Start on a beautiful blue face of "harder-than-it-looks climbing" past the first bolt to a good stance under the second. from here the route gets steep and powerful as you climb through big undercling and layback features. Get a good rest on a big, left-facing fin (knee-bars anyone?) just past the 4th bolt. From there, work your way far left under a big roof to gain a good hold at the lip, make a few more strenuous moves, and you're home free on the juggy, exposed headwall. Clip the anchors and lower out 20 feet from the wall!

The top half is still a tad dirty, but with some more traffic, I think it will clean up to be a 3 star line.

Start in a big, blue, right-facing corner 20 feet left of

Huffy

.

The first half of the route climbs a very obvious, wide crack feature (don't worry, no hand jamming or any other awful crack technique is required!). From the fourth bolt, the route zags left under the big roof.

6 bolts plus anchors. Long slings on bolts 2, 3, and 5 will drastically reduce rope drag as the line wanders a lot.

A stick clip for the first bolt is highly recommended.