Wily Gran

We thought this was a fun route in a stellar position at a reasonable grade. P2 is the money, P1 has its moments, and p3 is ok. Except for one move on P2, the climbing is 5.8 or easier. 70m rope is required to pitch out as we did, some shenanigans on p2 may be needed if using a 60.P1: Head up some hollow flakes/ cracks just left of a gully, aiming for a short splitter finger crack below and right of a big plant. Step right after climbing this and go up an unprotected groove, then head up to a bulge/ roof. Surmount this and build an anchor as far up as you can. A bit bushy. .8 70mP2: Sweet! Head right from belay to a cool hand traverse into a groove/ splitter crack. Head up the splitter .7/.8 hand and finger crack until it ends. Place gear, then quest up and right onto the mostly unprotected face for about 40 feet. The climbing in this section is spectacular 5.6 (maybe R at that grade); some dubious microcams can be found for mental comfort, but the climbing is quite secure. Just when the good holds end a pod appears for gear (.5-1) and do a weird 5.9 (crux) step right using a black knob for feet into another crack/gully system. Head up this system a little and build a belay here or in the crack to the right (more comfortable). .9 70mp3: Take the path of least resistance up corners and around bushes to the top of the formation. Expect at least some 5.7. 40mIf anyone has already climbed this line or part of it, let me know the name and grade and I would be happy to change it!

The far left side of the large ledge beneath the formation. Just left of a vegetated gully, up some hollow flakes. 

Standard rack to 3'', some micro cams if worried about p2.