- Edit (TBD)
Description
Breaking Boundary is an extension to the fantastic
Breaking Ben
. It entails two technical boulder problems separated from the
Breaking Ben
crux by an insecure, no-hands stance. While the crux finish may at first seem contrived, the rock is excellent, and the exposure unbelievable. The boundary is the imaginary line that separates the impeccable headwall from the roof above. I recommend not bailing to the chossy roof holds, but if you do, be prepared to clean them yourself and to earn fewer points for the send.
Location
Start by climbing most of
Breaking Ben
. At the 7th of
Breaking Ben’s
eight bolts, mantel up to take on the steep prow above. Trend slightly right from the initial stance to follow four bolts through the steep prow. Finally, commit to the line of strength traversing left across the headwall to top out the left arête. Clip the anchors at your right hip or knee once you have gained the jugs around the corner.
Protection
12 bolts + an anchor (7 bolts of
Breaking Ben
lead to 5 additional bolts for Breaking Boundary) +/- optional gear for the initial slab leading to
Breaking Ben
.
Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
- 6Breaking Boundary5.14a/bSport