- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is rarely done, but it is an interesting route. The bottom appears runout, but it is not too bad. After you turn the corner onto the face, the challenges begin, thin, techy slab climbing. It is a little heady but is generally safe. The bolts are old but appear solid. This has multiple cruxes with small holds and tricky sequences. The finishing crack is loose, easy, and a little scary. I got a #2 in, but the rock is poor, and I wouldn't have wanted to fall on it. Small cams may fit as well.
Location
It is left of
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower
and shares a start with
For Better of For Worse
. This then breaks right at the second bolt.
Protection
About 9 draws, a few finger-sized pieces, and a #2 for the top. The anchor needs new webbing, I may get around to swapping it out soon.
Routes in J. Jabba Buttress
- 9Two Face5.12cSport