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Peak Mountain 3

Kook Slams (Boulder Portion)

FA Dave Graham
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Kook Slams climbs out the looker's right side of the Nomad Cave on some high quality stone, if only it didn’t use the footholds of other climbs.

Start at the bottom of the arete (under

Pizza Dick

) on a nice jug as for

Wheel Of Fortune

. Make a few moves on that climb before branching right and executing 3-4 very hard moves, involving sweet toehooks and an awesome gaston ear thing. The crux move revolves around being able to hold tension and making a desperate, sick, and insane looking rose move to a good, flat edge. Swing the feet around off the toehooks, and bump your left hand to the jug. Either move left to the jug rails and drop, taking away a V13, or do as the first ascentionist did and clip in to a rope and finish up

Pizza Dicks’

5.13 variation, taking away a hard 5.14.

The real question is who will follow Dave’s vision and climb to the top of the wall, only without a rope???

Location

This is on the looker's right side of Nomad Cave (if looking into the cave). It climbs the furthest right boulder in the cave, using holds under the roof and toehooks on the arete under

Pizza Dick

.

Protection

3 pads and a rope.... This isn’t a toprope as the database says. If you can get through the bottom but not lead the 5.13, I have questions.