No Way Home

This is another new problem for the cave, with a unique set of moves. To clarify, Griffin Whiteside established a line beginning at the end of

Spidey

, or the starting jug of

Express Yourself

, which climbs along the lip of the cave, past the rockpile, and finishes on a crack in the back of the roof. He suggested “V13,” although as of January 2022, it hasn’t been repeated and looks quite hard. Without knowing, a few boulderers started the same and climbed to finish on the rockpile, as for

Catillac

. We didn’t know until after it had been done that Griff went to the back, so his line is deserving of a completely different entry. This describes the climb that finishes on the rockpile.

Start on the comfy jug under the first bolt of

EY

. Campus to an L edge, and make a huge gaston move. Swing your feet over to the rock tower, and mantel over. This thing is sweet, because the swing move is much harder than

Catillac’s

finish, making for an unusual crux.

P.S. All the history about these certain problems doesn’t matter a whole lot, since the Nomad Cave is subject to endless links, all of which are just for dry rock and training. I just enjoy writing about it :)

Start at the end of

Spidey

or the beginning of

Express Yourself

, then climb about 10 feet to the rockpile. Finish on that.

Pads. Griff built the awesome landing, btw.