- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is choose your own adventure for sure, below is the way we went. The climbing can be as low as 5.4 or up to 5.7.
Pitch 1: Start at the far left "Two-man party" route and finish on the first pitch anchor of the furthest right "Two-man party" route. (5.4 100ft)
Pitch 2: Down climb ~30ft then resume traverse through the lichen fields. Pass an old bolt and pins, finish on large ledge with bolts. (5.5 130ft)
Pitch 3: Follow anchor bolts along easy terrain, pass the cable and finish on a small ledge atop a short buttress. The anchor is the farthest right route of the "balance climbs". (5.easy 200ft)
Pitch 4: Start by heading a little up through the charred vale to uneven terrain, the climbing is low 5th to 4th class here. Aim for a large bush on a ledge, belay from a hanging stance 10ft below the ledge, or stretch the rope/simul ~40ft past the bush to anchors with a better stance. (5.5 210-240ft)
Pitch 5: Cross over the ridge and move over to the top of the cliff. Belay from a tree or build a gear anchor in the large horizontal crack lower down. (5.5 120-170ft) (Direct finish) Climb up and over the second overhang above you.
Who knows if this has been done before, either way it's a fun climb for a less crowded day. If you know anything about it or if you do it let us know, we'd love to hear about it.
Location
Normal approach to the Main Face. Descent: Walk off from the top anywhere to main trail.
Protection
Bolted Anchors, Standard single rack, doubles in smaller gear (finger size), Tricams. We used a 70m rope, with a 60m gear anchors may be needed.
Routes in Main Face
- 1Yonah Traverse5.5Trad