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Peak Mountain 3

Xanadu

FA Bill McClure & Dave Buck
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A Georgia classic that doesn’t come in often. Requires a solid cold snap with precip sometime soonish before hand. Cloud coverage helps. An alpine start is a must as the sun hits the wall early. This route in good conditions can easily be done in two pitches if the ice is good but is traditionally broken into 3 as the ice on this route can be suspect regarding a belay in the middle. Pitch 2&3 can be linked if rope drag isn’t horrible and your belayer breaks down the anchor and walks to the ice on the right of the ledge or if the ice is good on the left side you shouldn’t have to traverse very far. If you wind up climbing pure rock sections down low or up high lose the crampons as they do not help and will just scratch things up. Expect some possible mixed action in the icy sections. Pitch 1 is generally super thin down low and might not be touching but can be bypassed by climbing easy rock on the left at 5.6 which is fun in boots. Belay near the pine to the left of the ice. Pitch 2 follow the thickest ice up underneath the overhang and build a belay. Pitch 3 either follow Ice out the overhang climbers right or go up the easy rock dihedral  to the left.

Location

Big frozen flow pretty much dead center of the wall

Protection

A rack of screws as well as some tricams, small medium cams, and maybe a piece of iron or two. I got a large beak in that was bomber and felt much needed. The gear you can get changes depending on how wide the flow. The bigger the flow the easier the climbing but the more challenging it is to protect.