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Peak Mountain 3

Walk of Life

FA Ron Kauk, Kevin Worrall, Mark Chapman (June '86)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Walk of Life is located between Quicksilver and Freewheelin' on the North Apron. A long approach pitch is rewarded with two excellent pitches of thin 5.10 face on perfect rock. This one doesn't have the huge 60+ ft runouts like some of the other apron climbs (mainly because the climbing is more sustained), but there are a couple 5.9 sections with bad fall potential. The cruxes are very well protected.

Pitch 1: Begin the same as Quicksilver, scrambling up the left trending 3rd class ramp. Near the end of the rope, move right to a tree with rap slings in fractured rock and belay.

Pitch 2: Climb to the right into a right-facing corner. Protect it with some small pro and climb up to a bolt under a roof. Extend the bolt or pay with rope drag (this is a long pitch). Climb around the right side of the roof and then make a runout 5.9 move to reach the second bolt (could be 10a R if you're short). Bolt 2 is the only one on the climb which hasn't been replaced by the ASCA. Smear up and right to bolt 3, then move right to a crack system, up past one more bolt to the anchor.

Pitch 3: The first bolt is straight above the anchor and protects the 5.10+ crux of the climb. Angle left and then up to the second bolt (sporty 5.9 with potential to swing back into your belayer). Continue up the face past several bolts. At bolt 6 traverse left to reach the anchor and the top of pitch 3 of Quicksilver.

If you wish you can continue for a couple more pitches on Quicksilver/Freewheelin'. Rappel with two ropes.

There is also a new climb/variation (not in the Reid guide) which begins on the face to the right of Quicksilver and climbs straight up into a major right-facing corner system. This climb then joins Walk of Life at the top of pitch 2.

Protection

Micro to 1"