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Peak Mountain 3

Mother Earth

FA George Meyers, John Long, Kevin Wirral, Mark Chapman (1975)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1. Climb a mungy cornered a good ledge.

P2. Climb an immaculate face of orange granite past several bolts and a distinct well protected crux.

P3. Climb up into a shallow corner and eventually onto the face. The face is featured and has decent protection until you get to an easy crack and a small ledge.

P4. Easy face climbing with decent gear protects more immaculate face to a shallow corner. Good gear in the corner ends at a ledge.

P5. Climb a fun and easy corner until you traverse right across the face following natural features. Place a 1” piece high to protect the traverse. End at a good ledge.

P6. Climbs the best protected pitch on the route through the best granite on Mother Earth. End at a good ledge.

P7. Climb into an awkward corner past several bolts and begin the spooky traverse right. Decent protection protects the traverse. Do a hard reach move or jump for the corner. Gear belay in corner.

P8. Climb the corner to a small alcove. Gear belay (5.8.). Or continue to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P9. Follow the corner to a decent ledge (5.9)

P10. Continue up the corner (5.8) to a big gigantic ledge.

Traverse off the route on spooky 4th class to the Gunsight Gully or rappel the route (two 60m) back down using the anchors near pitch 8. Traverse down and right (180ft rappel) to anchors on pitch 6. Continue straight down Smith Crawford or Mother Earth. Smith, Crawford is more direct and a cleaner rappel.

Location

Far right side of Middle.

Protection

Cams to 3”. Nuts, 1 set. Offsets useful.