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Origami
Description
Origami is a good route on good rock, for the most part. The beginning looks a bit scrappy, but it's just a bit of lichen, and there's no reason not to climb this one. In fact, it may be the best warm-up at the crag given that it is easy to find and starts from the ground, as well as reaches a good anchor (rap with a 70m) up top.
P1 can also be used as an access pitch for
ELO
,
Arch Dihedral
, or other pitches from the ledge.
Start up the corner below the blocky roof. At the roof, choose left or right. We went right and found it a bit awkward, but engaging, fun, and well protected. Climb up on cracks and flakes up and right from there to a good ledge, belaying as you may please on that ledge. It also seems quite likely that you could skip that belay if you've been using slings judiciously.
From the ledge, go up and left (second ledge here) on a left-leaning hand-to-fist crack for a few moves (or belay at the top of that to join
Arch Dihedral
(or
ELO
), and then step right to go past a single bolt and into a right-leaning crack and shallow corner. Head up and right on that, crossing Arch Dihedral just left of a small roof. Continue up on gear and a single bolt to the top of the rock.
There are various gear placements or boulders you can sling to belay up top.
To descend, go down and NW to the bolt-and-chain anchors as for
ELO
&
Electric Sky
, and rap ~70' to the ledge (a tree here has a sling to rap again) or 110' to a ledge with a 70m rope, and then scramble down 3rd Class 10-15' more feet to the ground.
Location
Head through the notch between formations and on to the West Face. Stay alongside the cliff heading down and south along that side. If you don't see the washing-machine sized block trapped 12 meters up in a set of inset corners that forms a roof, that's OK. You will next reach a cave in a decaying area of white rock, 10 meters up. From there, back track 10 meters back to the NW, and look again. This system is the start of Origami.
Protection
Gear to 3" with an optional #4 Camalot. A double set and lots of 2' runners may make this a single-pitch lead.
Routes in South Formation
- 5Origami5.9Trad