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Description
Button Hole is surprisingly good, clean, and well-protected. Start facing left in the chimney with some finger locks and stoppers, and at a huge chockstone, get turned around for protection on the opposite wall. At the top of the chimney, it opens up. A few Camalots in a horizontal to the left with long slings provide the protection you want to feel safe backing out of the chimney and stepping across left to a low angle ramp with a crack. Head up this ramp to the top of the rock, and belay on a big boulder.
To descend, Gillett suggests going to a 4th Class chimney, but a 100' rap lies directly across the rock on the SW face 30 meters away.
Location
On the back side of the Button Rock, there are 2x climbs, a 12c, and a 5.7 very near each other. These are best approached by heading left from the trail and around the 'front' of Button Rock more so than going all the way around it past the other climbs to here.
A few cairns mark a reasonable trail around to them. Precise directions are tough, but when you reach a straight-cut, clean, 24" chimney, you have arrived at Button Hole.
Protection
A set of stoppers and cams from 0.5 to 3". A long cordalette can be used to sling a boulder belay up top.
Routes in South Formation
- 15Button Hole5.7+Trad