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Peak Mountain 3

West Ramp of Wizard's Hat

FA Jeff Coon & Jen Vogt, August 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1:  from ledge beneath outcrop gain ramp and continue up, laughing as you go.  Around 30-35m up you'll encounter small headwall steps, very easily negotiated by staying left.  Final short, lower angle ramp leads to summit block and directly to established rappel anchor in alcove beneath large boulder atop summit.  Quick & fun, so run a couple laps.

Note we cleaned one line, and veering off climber's right could encounter substantial and sizable loose rock.  Please Be Careful.

Location

Approach Wizards' Hat.  Ideally, first climb J&J Route, then rappel down the Ramp Route and climb it.  Otherwise, approach Wizard's Hat, veer right / west around base, aiming for prominent rock outcrop above ledge on right skyline.  AVOID near vertical corner filled with very loose, friable, deadly rock to left -- instead, stay right of this and scramble boulders and loose rock up to ledge beneath outcrop.

Protection

Gear: twins, full set nuts, few cams 0.5 - 2", slings, helmet required.


Routes in Wizard's Hat


  1. 2
    West Ramp of Wizard's Hat
    5.5
    Alpine · Trad