J&J Route

P1:  ascend to NE face, to just beneath prominent NE facing toe buttress with prominent rock band of black rock.  Set belay below this to protect from rockfall, lead off around left side, sticking to small, low angle faces rather than ducking into loose rock filled corner to right.  Continue up several of these faces til reaching a vertical, short, left-facing corner after ~45m climbing; climb this to large bouldery ledge beneath 20' headwall and set belay.  5.4, 50-55m.

P2:  facing 20' slightly overhung face choose between Jen's Chimney/Corner left [ stemmable corner system with nice hand crack, but right leaning angle makes for couple awkward moves ], or Jeff's Crack, beautiful finger to hands crack on the right.  After gaining large ledge above, angle right to gain ramps leading to northern summit.  If rope drag substantial choose to belay from top of 40-50' ramp, but push to sub-summit if possible.  From top of large ramp climb corner then ramp leading to summit.  On reaching false summit can round large block to right or bounce over, reaching very comfortable square, flat-topped boulder which makes fantastic belay.  5.7+, 40-45m to summit.

Warning:  this route does have substantial amount of loose rock -- be very careful climbing, carefully set rope via protection and provide safe belays to reduce rockfall risk.

Descent:  find rappel anchor [ of double wrap webbing backed by nut, with locker ] in alcove beneath largest summit boulder.  Rappel down west facing ramp; preferably do not rappel down loose rock filled corner ~40m, but instead continue down ramps til ~50m, finding a loose rocky ledge beneath a rock outcrop which provides great protection from rockfall.  From here, easy & short scramble back down to bouldery but flat ridge-top you approached from.

From Muriel Lake's outflow you can choose

(a) take fishermen's trail to Middle Lake, then from right / west side of meadow find lovely campsite, then ascend bushy / sandy ledges on upward angle directly toward Wizard's Hat; or (b) from Muriel Lake outflow directly scramble straight up intermediate highpoint at end of ridgeline separating Goethe Lake basin & Wahoo Lakes basin, then boulder-hop fun ridgeline over to Wizard's Hat.  Original ascent ascended b, descended a.

On reaching Wizard's Hat proceed left around base on east side, ascending up to beneath a small toe buttress with prominent black rock band.  We made our belay behind left side of this buttress and strongly recommend similar to provide protection from rockfall.

Gear: twins, full set nuts, few cams 0.5 - 2", many single & double slings. Helmets required.