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Peak Mountain 3

Initiation

FA John Markwell/John Christian (1971)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb ascends the taller eastern (left) buttress (fin) as opposed to the western buttress (fin) which is the last pitch of the Gephardt-Dufty. Scramble up to a ledge on the buttress that lies to the left of the Great Chimney route, or climb the first three pitches of Gephardt-Dufty and do some easy bushwhacking pitch to connect to the base of the eastern buttress. This latter method is really where the decent climbing is; the rest is highly vegetated and poor quality rock.

#1. Climb the narrow (less than 10 feet) north face to a ledge near the top. (140 ft.) Initial climbing is on very clean, light color, rock with almost no lichen. Belay on a ledge on a west (climbers right) wall.

#2. Climb up to a large ledge on top of the buttress (30 ft.). Parts of this section was covered by thick layer of lichen.

Staying left on the 2nd pitch is also an option and is about 5.6 R on decent rock.

Location

To start, scramble up to a ledge on the buttress that lies to the left of the Great Chimney route on the Southern Pillar.

Protection

General rack. Many good nut and small cam placements.