- Edit (TBD)
Description
A nice route in a quiet setting, a short ways uphill from The Fragmatist. It goes directly up the face to gain a vertical crack system with an obvious alcove at about half height. There is a good oak tree on the start ledge for an anchor.
Climb up easy ledges to a short wall and a small formation that forms a small triangular pedestal. Climb up on the left side of the pedestal (small gear through here) to a stance at a steep wall with a tiny crack at about eye level. You can get some small gear here (very small brass offsets and IMPs helpful) and then make the reachy moves to a great horizontal (crux)...easier if tall and you might even skip the small gear. Continue up to the alcove and follow the crack system, passing a small roof on the right side. Finish up on some ledges and then move to a good pine tree and belay on the right.
At the top, you are about 20 yds right of The Wild Goose Wall. You can walk off that way, reversing the approach for that or rap off a tree in the area. There is also a large pine further to the left with some cord on it that needs a quick link or rings.
There are a few small pro placements up to the pedestal but the climbing is pretty easy. Once up on the pedestal, I nested 3 brassies in the small crack, not knowing how the climb would unfold. After that bit, it's G and very nice 5.7 climbing with no loose rock found until the very upper ledges. Use caution up there because we may not have cleared out all of it.
Location
About 50 yds uphill from the big, obvious left-facing corner near The Fragmatist. Look for a triangular alcove in orange rock with a crack running up and left. Down low, there is a horizontal crack that comes over from the left side (the alternate start) and has a small tree growing in it. Where this crack turns vertical is where you're headed.
Protection
Gear to 3 inches. You could place a 4 inch piece if you have it but it's not critical. Small wires helpful (brass and/or #3 stopper size).
Routes in Southern Pillar - East Side
- 5Far From The Maddening Crowd5.7Trad