Wind, Sand, and Stars

Sadly, this route description is posted only for its historic significance as the third route to be forged up the Mace, and the first to climb directly to the main summit. The route was virtually eliminated in the late 1980’s by a party that bolted the crack line to within 50 feet of the summit. Unfortunately, since the crack features some of the softest rock in Sedona, removal of the bolts to restore the route would only create horrific scars and damage the spire beyond repair. It is hoped that the bolt ladder will now stand as a monument to the folly of a style of climbing that ended long ago (and was over LONG before the “new route” was installed).

Pitch 1: Today, the short, right-facing corner that begins the pitch is distinguished by its graffiti. Mixed free and aid follows soft rock up the obvious crack just left of the notch. The crack size varies from hand-sized to RPs, and expect numerous placements to be suspect. Crux aid climbing (A2+) arrives as the crack pinches down above the obvious traverse band, and a crack switch to the left is required to gain the triangular belay ledge.

Pitch 2: The “Fissure Higgins”, first led by Colorado legend Molly Higgins. Climb the obvious wide crack above the belay, encountering increasingly difficult chimney and off-width climbing through the overhang above (5.10). Expect significant effort to pull onto the Mace main summit!

Passive gear and a few pitons were used on the first ascent.