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Peak Mountain 3

Real Rappel Route

FA Scott Baxter, Ross Hardwick, Gordon Douglass
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A high-quality and historic route- the second one to climb the Mace. As the name describes, the route follows the line of the rappels from the second-highest tower of the Mace.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious crack that leads to the ledge below the notch between the first and second towers. Increasingly delicate stemming leads to the thin crux (5.10), which is well-protected on thin cams and wires. The crack widens back to hand-sized above, and easier climbing leads to the belay.

Pitch 2: This pitch is the physical opposite of Pitch 1- burly crack climbing leads to the wide-fists crux at a bulge half way up the tower. Fight through the bulge (5.10), then pull into easier climbing in the chimney and off-width above.

Protection

The full Sedona complement: from thin cams and medium wires for the first pitch, and the wide stuff (to 5") for the second.