We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Cardiovascular Seizure

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This worthwhile route climbs the right most dihedral system.

P1: varied cracks 5.8,

P2: right leaning crack system up toward corner, switch to higher of two cracks midway then up to ledge with 2 piton belay- 10a.

P3: unusual double cracks at 90 degrees inside corner (side by side foot jams and bilateral gaston)- 5.9 belay on small pillar with gear,

P4: steep flared hands with poor flaky feet 11- to chimney and ledge on right. This cruxy pitch could be avoided by staying in corner to the right at probably 5.9

P5: varied cracks to chimney to big ledge- long pitch 5.8

P6: step right from ledge then up steep clean corner (small gear), then hand traverse right to next corner to small roof/ledge then up final chimney to summit 10b.

Descend off the north side - easy 5th and 4th class downclimbing to ledges and scree the contour around to Whitney-Russell col.

Location

Between the Mountaineer's Route and the Whitney- Russell col: the most prominent, aesthetic sub-peak called "Iceberg Spire".

Protection

Nuts plus cams doubles to #2 Camalot plus 1 #3.