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Peak Mountain 3

North Face

FA Keith Leaman 1971 solo
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Description

The crux starts after a traverse along ledges above the Mountaineer's Rt. At the steepest section of the North Face, ascend an obvious thin hands 5.8 (approx. rating) splitter for a few short pitches to the large recess below the summit. The number of pitches will vary since I free soloed all but the crux section.

Location

Ascend the East buttress route a few hundred feet until higher than the Mountaineer's Rt. and traverse right. Top out at the summit. I would be interested if anyone else has climbed on this side.

Protection

I did a hammerless solo using a 60m 9mm rope, several small to medium nuts and prusik for belay. Encountered snow and ice on ledges of the upper pitches. I used a found piece of metal to scrape ice from the thin ledges. Recommend an ice cleaning tool.