- Edit (TBD)
Description
Grab your hand jammies and helmet! Not since "Demon Wizard Bat" has there been such a futuristic linkup of American Fork choss. Probably the easiest way to climb the entirety of The Black Magic Cave, this hodgepodge of a climb starts on True Lies (12d) then climbs Helix (12-) backwards and downward toward the lip of the cave before finishing on Hexed (13a). While the route doesn’t seem to have any stopper moves, the redpoint crux seems to be the long sequence linking into and surmounting the lip with the pump. Be aware this route requires long slings, some runouts on easier terrain and the use of a spooky chalk stone. Not for everyone, but quite a fun challenge for the right rock weirdo. Make sure to brush up on your crack skills and cave tricks for this silly circus route.
Location
Probably the easiest way to climb the entirety of the cave, this hodgepodge starts on "True Lies" (12d) then climbs "Helix" (12-) backwards and downward toward the lip of the cave before finishing on "Hexed" (13a).
Protection
Bolts, draws and runners.
Routes in Black Magic
- 18Designer Babies5.13b/cSport