- Edit (TBD)
Description
Excellent quality rock with some exciting movement.
A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.
The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.
Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.
Location
Found on the downhill (left) side of the wall to the left of the
Black Magic
cave.
Just after starting up the hill on the wooden steps there is a left-facing dihedral with bolts along its left side, and at the top of the dihedral a bolt on the right side. This is the route.
Protection
11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Routes in Black Magic
- 5Kronk5.11bSport