Stone Sweet Ridge

The main (east) south ridge of Calico Peak rises up above the Stone Wall and Sweet Pain sport crags. And its stone climbs sweet - [ see GPS track on Map ].

Lots of interesting climbing in a variety of situations (much on ridges). . . . Also a significant percentage of the approach and descent offers additional interesting scrambling situations. . . . Variations offer choices of different rock situations or short sequences of easier or harder moves.

The 5.6 and 5.5 moves can be avoided (at least by the followers), keeping the overall difficulty more like 5.4.

Three main climbing sections with some walking in between. Often the last section to the true east summit is skipped, because the lower south ViewCap is so nice. Or those feeling tired can stop after the first main section and still have gotten lots of interesting climbing even without reaching the ViewCap.

context: This route (with alternate start down from Middle Pass) fits well into a "grand traverse" of the Calico Ridges S to N. Or a less-long ridge traverse from the 2nd Pull-Out parking: first hike/scramble up to Stairmaster Pass, next traverse Red Book Point summit and ridges from S to N to reach Frostie Shack Pass, then S Ridge + S Groove to Calico Peak, and descend SE Gully and back to 2PO parking.

Climbing only the Lower + Middle parts with finish to the south ViewCap makes a varied exciting shorter outing.

There are three South ridges for Calico Peak [see Photo]. The most prominent from the Red Rock Scenic Loop road is the left (W) one [see the route SW Ridge], which goes up directly to the south ViewCap (N36.1585 W115.4380) - (which is not the highest summit) - and it requires more difficult climbing to get onto it near its bottom. The right (E) one aims more at the two highest summits of Calico Peak, but has some ups and downs along the way. There is also a ridge in between these two with some rather interesting climbing / scrambling [see the route Red Slippers]. This route is for the right one. Since it is easiest to get onto near its bottom, has the most interesting climbing, and aims most directly at the highest summit, makes sense to think of it as the "main" S ridge of Calico Peak.

equipment: Tight-fitting technical rock-climbing shoes are not needed, because very few moves depend on stepping on small edges. But many moves stepping on slopy footholds, so a sticky-rubber rock-climbing style sole on a well-designed climbing-oriented approach shoe is valuable.

Using Trad gear to "fill in" the long runout sections of the lower part is unknown. Many climbers with lots of outdoor experience are well-capable of solo-ing this route in approach shoes (except for the risk of a hold breaking).

Three quickdraws and a single 40-meter rope sufficient for leading (thoughj 40-meter is not sufficient for rappelling, which is not recommended anyway). Might want to bring a "trad draw" with extendable runner/sling for the second intermediate bolt on the Pitch 7 of the Lower part. Perhaps a long sling for the natural anchors at the tops of pitch 1 and pitch 2.

Hiking poles (collapsable) useful for approach and descent.

Effort: to the south ViewCap +935 ft uphill over 0.6 mile. To Calico Peak summit +1080 ft uphill over 0.8 mile. Additional +130 ft uphill on return to Parking.

warning: Many loose rocks and weak breakable hand- and foot-holds on and around this route - (even when the rock is plenty dry). The rock becomes especially weak for a couple of days after significant rain or snow, so holds are even more likely to break off.

• • GPS track for approach+route: View + download Map on this page CampToCamp

From the "Second Pull-Out" parking (N36.1518 W115.4374) on the Red Rock Scenic Loop road, hike about 300 ft N on trail descending, at junction sharp Right down 130 ft E into wash. Next about 500 ft N without obvious trail, getting away from left (W) side of wash, then in the midst of an uphill around the left side of a hill, at (N36.1549 W115.4371) turn sharp Right (E) and traverse 120 ft around right side of hill, then N along the wash about 325 feet to reach the white chalk marks of the Sweet Pain wall). . . . (or in very dry conditions instead of flirting with that hill, can just go 300 ft close along left side of wash, then NNE 250ft downward into center of wash (N36.1549 W115.4365). . . . More interesting scrambling to instead take the next (narrower) gully to the West and get N past the Stone Wall (N36.1560 W115.4370).

Next into a long uphill with some scrambling sections and sometimes vegetation to avoid. About a hundred feet above the Meetup Wall, around (N36.1572 W115.4369), leave the main gully and go up left (NNW) into another gully - - > See this Photo with a dramatic pillar on its left, a ridge rising on its left, and a big roof high above. Up this about 75 ft to meet continuous rock around (N36.1574 W115.4370). . . . Or instead early get up on the ridge between the two gullies (see main route and Variation 1.1 below). . . . . [ shown on this Photo | and this Photo ]

Effort: +475 ft uphill over 0.45 mile (+143 m uphill over 0.7 km).

Start from Frostie Shack Pass: From the Frostie Shack Pass (N36.1581 W115.4368) which is low point between Red Book Point and Calico Peak, hike/scramble down about 100-150 ft and see a gully up to right with a prickly-pear in middle - - > See this Photo. Scramble up mini-ridge forming the left side of that gully. Next flat about 30 ft over to a platform toward the bottom of the S ridge -- to rejoin main route at top of pitch 2 (N36.1576 W115.4371). This platform on right (E) side of ridge has a vertical rock hole plus one bolt for an anchor.

From Calico Basin parking: Frostie Shack Pass can also be reached from the SE, starting from parking in Calico Basin (outside the Scenic Loop road) -- but much longer, with a little higher difficulty and lots more quantity of scrambling/climbing ... First up to the "Middle Sand Flat" (GPS lat long approx N36.1577 W115.4354).-.(elevation 4325 ft /1320m), then about 400 ft WNW in a narrow gully.

See directions on the Calico Peaks area description page (under the Pass crossings section).

Protection for Trad leading the Upper part (South Groove) is unknown. No fixed hardware for anchors or intermediate protection in that part.

The Lower part (East South Ridge) now has 5 two-bolt belay anchors (not designed for rappel / descent), also 2 intermediate bolts on each of pitch 5 and pitch 7. Nevertheless the sections outside the cruxes on Pitch 1 and Pitch 5 are unprotected / very runout, with much of the unprotected climbing at difficulty sustained 4th class with perhaps some low-5th-class moves.

Hardware on pitches 2 through 7 was installed by Dan Young and Ken Roberts.

. . . All hardware is 304 Stainless Steel. . . . The bolts of the lower P3 + P4 + P5 belay anchors are 4 x 0.375 inch Powers five-piece sleeve bolts. The bolts for the P7 belay anchor and the four intermediate points on P5 + P7 are 2.75 x 0.375 inch Fixe wedge bolts - (Not the best mechanism for sandstone -- so if someone thinks it's important to replace those wedge bolts before twenty years, feel free). Installed 2018. . . . The single bolt in the top anchor for P2 is Powers 5-piece sleeve bolt 5.5 inch x  0.5 inch. The three intermediate bolts on P1 are Powers 5-piece sleeve bolts 3.5 inch x 0.5 inch. Installed 2019.

My feeling is that if you think you might actually take a leader fall on one of those intermediate wedge bolts, better to choose a different route. We installed them on Pitch 5 mainly for just in case one of the rock holds breaks. The ones on Pitch 7 are intended mainly as directionals for a follower.

The middle part (Calico Viewpoint) has 3 two-bolt belay anchors, 2 intermediate lead bolts on the main route, and 3 intermediate lead bolts on the "direct steep" variation. All the bolts are 304 Stainless Powers 5-piece sleeve bolts, 0.5 inch diameter, all installed 2019. Some are 6 inch long, the rest are 4 inch long. Each anchor includes at least one 6-inch long bolt. All 3 intermediate lead bolts on the "direct steep" variation are 6-inch. Likely at least one of the intermediate lead bolts on the main route is 6-inch.