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Peak Mountain 3

SW face to upper W South ridge

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Description

Looks remarkable from afar on the RR Scenic Loop road - [photo] - but after the first pitch the climbing is just a long 3rd class friction walk -- (Not as much interesting climbing as the main S ridge route, "Stone Sweet Ridge").

Perhaps most useful as a way to make a S->N ridge traverse of the northern Calicos with start and finish from the Sandstone Quarry parking. Though likely shorter from 2nd Pull-Out parking.

There are three South ridges on Calico Peak. This is the left one and it finishes directly to the Calico south ViewCap (N36.1585 W115.4380). The right one (Stone Sweet Ridge) is aimed more at the higher Calico Peaks. There is also a middle ridge (Red Slippers) between those, which has some interesting climbing, the most on narrow ridge sections.

This route starts climbing from the west and hits the ridge about a third of the way up. We have heard there is also a way to access closer to the bottom of the ridge by starting from the east side, climbing a steeper face (? perhaps with bolt protection ? perhaps at least 5.8 difficulty) . (? perhaps after climbing the route "Bewitched"?). . . .  (but since the actual climbing on the ridge crest is not so interesting, skipping some of it might seem OK).

Location

From 2nd Pull-Out parking (N36.1518 W115.4374) on the Red Rock Scenic Loop road, hike about 300 ft N on trail descending, at junction sharp Right down 130 ft E into wash. Next about 500 ft N without obvious trail, getting away from left (W) side of wash, then in the midst of an uphill around the left side of a hill, at (N36.1549 W115.4371) turn sharp Right (E) and traverse 120 ft around right side of hill, and N about 100 ft descending traverse into wash. Continuing straight up the wash about 225 ft gets to the white chalk marks of the Sweet Pain wall, but simpler navigation and more interesting scrambling if instead turn NW and get into a narrower gully, next go N up that past the white chalk marks of the Stone Wall (N36.1560 W115.4370). Scrambling gets sustained steeper and thoughtful, then gentler and open somehwhere around (N36.1566 W115.4371).

Head roughly NW to reach a very wide ledge, which continues toward the white chalk marks of the steep Stratocaster Wall - [photo]. Well before reaching Stratocaster, check various weaknesses above right. One that works is - - > shown in this Photo1 | Photo2

From Sandstone Quarry parking: Follow instructions to reach the Stratocaster Wall (N36.1588 W115.4400) - [photo], then continue SouthEast on very wide ledge. Keep looking up left to check weaknesses. One that works is - - > shown in this Photo1 | Photo2

Protection

First pitch has a tree at top which perhaps could be used as anchor. Other pitches on the ridge crest itself have two-bolt anchors, and perhaps some intermediate bolts.