Jugs on Drugs

P1 130’ 5.8 head up rambly cracks to an obvious Bombay. Face climb out the Bombay and up into an easy crack that leads to a great ledge. A cool, very 3D pitch. Belay takes most anything P2 180’ 5.9+ step right into varnished flare. Stem wide and into another Bombay. Awkwardly exit the Bombay and continue up the OW until you can move right and climb the steep runout face (5.7). (You can also continue to battle your way up the OW with gear - 5.9) Traverse back to the main crack at a horizontal to a finger crack flake. Build a semi-hanging belay at a stance where this crack widens to a hand crack. P3 170’ 5.7 Traverse right on an easy but slightly runout slab to a varnished right facing corner. Climb the sweet face just right of the corner, placing gear in the corner when you can reach. Head up into a big low fifth chimney feature and belay on a huge ledge with a splitter hand crack. P4 100’ 5.8 head up the splitter. If you brought a 4 continue up the OW, or traverse right to a slightly easier but runout and insecure goove. Either way end at a large bushy ledge. Descent: Scramble climbers left 100ft to a large slung bolder. One 55m rap puts you in the gully. Scramble and downclimb this canyon (one optional rappel for a 5.4 chimney) and link into the right gully, walkoff for “Only the Good Die Young” which puts you on the Wholesome Fulback approach. It’s also possible to bushwhack to the base of the route (left gully), but that means more walking.

Approach as for Black Velvet wall then continue out a narrow ledge about 150’ left of Spark Plug

Gear to #4 cam, doubles .5 to 2 and nuts. Lots o slings.