Refried Brains

This is a decent route which is not as time consuming as Swain's topo would indicate. The first 6 pitches in his topo easily go in 4 rope lengths, even with a 50m rope. The route goes to the top of the wall, but the climbing deteriorates above here, plus there are no fixed anchors, so most parties rappel after the first 4 pitches, so take two ropes.

This route is on the left side of the Black Velvet wall and gets very little sun, if any. A good choice for a warm day. Start near the left margin of the wall, 40' left of a huge block leaning against the base of the crag.

P1: Climb a short crack up and right, past a bolt, continue up crack and face to a 2-bolt belay on a ledge (150').

P2: Step left and climb up into a corner system to the top of a pillar on the right (with tree). Above and right of the pillar there is now a bolted belay, the problem is this is probably 190' from the previous belay, plus the geometry can make for heinous rope drag. We stopped atop the pillar and then moved the belay 30' over to the bolts.

P3: Here is where Swain's topo is confusing. Step right onto the face and follow an obvious crack up. For the most part, this crack is 1-3", but for some short sections it is wider, but you don't have to get into the thing. Belay after about 150' at a tree (marked the end of pitch 4 in Swain's topo), 5.9.

P4: Climb a lower-angle section past loose blocks to the base of a huge right-facing corner (visible in photos). Don't climb the corner system, but move left onto a steep face left of the corner, and follow at least 4 bolts to a bolted belay (careful with rope drag on this pitch).

At least one party has gotten confused at this point, continuing on because they believed they were lower on the route due to the pitch lengths listed in Swain. They report that the next anchor is a joke (for rappelling off of), so consider this anchor "the point of last return". Either rap now or continue upward.

Standard rack to #4 Camalot (although I do not remember using the #4). Two ropes.