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Peak Mountain 3

North Star

FA Andy Fitz, Jim Matthews (2012)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A Tieton version of Karate Crack or Breakfast of Champions.

Start with an easy hand crack/chimney on the left or easy corner on the right to reach a small ledge and a two-bolt belay/rappel anchor. Stop here and belay, or continue over a small roof to a balancey lieback flake feature below a large roof (TCUs and two bolts). Just below the roof, make a barn-door move around the arete to a jug . Power up a splitter finger crack and a jagged leftward traverse (crux) to gain a long splitter hand crack with a couple of wider pods. There’s a thin, but very fun, .10- face crux just below the anchor.

Location

Obvious huge right-facing open book with splitter hand crack.

Protection

Full rack with multiple hand-sized cams; TCUs and a few small wired nuts.

Two rappels to reach the ground. It’s possible to top out by moving left to the Basic Needs/Medicine ledge, then scrambling up and left (belay needed).