Follow the Water

“All of that water ran down the hill / Every broken thing washes away”

—

Follow the Water

, Calexico/Iron & Wine

Day 3 of prepping this route was the hottest day of the summer.  I was already thirsty hiking in, only to discover I’d failed to pack extra water.  Several hours of cleaning later, out of water and feeling dizzy and nauseated, I decided to investigate the sound of rushing water I’d always heard below the cliff.  I clambered down the talus field and discovered a spring gushing from the base, pure and cold.

This can be climbed with a short approach pitch followed by the crux pitch, or in one long pitch, as was done on the FA.

Pitch 1 (5.8; 5 bolts + optional gear):  lieback an offwidth flake, move right through easy finger and hand cracks, stem off a freestanding pillar, and trend back left to a belay anchor above hanging blocks.

Pitch 2 (10 bolts + gear):  gear-protected moves up a ramp/corner lead to bolts and the first crux: a swivel right around an arete to get established in an exposed finger crack. The crack might feel 5.10 or it might feel harder; focus on your feet and don’t forget the left arete. I protected this section with two #0 TCUs after trying to fiddle in small wireds. The highlight comes above with cool moves through a bulgy compression scoop wave feature.  Finish with an airy stem left to clip the anchor.

See photos; bolted offwidth flake start between Fireweed and Fossils of Youth

15 bolts total; gear to #1 BD cam, emphasis on small cams.

Two rappels to base. With a 70m rope, it’s BARELY possible to be lowered from the top anchor to the first pitch anchor, then TR your partner on the route. TIE A KNOT IN THE ROPE END.