- Edit (TBD)
Description
Wow. This thing is a masterpiece! With the first bolt pre-clipped, step off the lower shelf of rock into a perfect double-arete compression boulder problem. An absolutely perfect (and very technical) sequence leads to a knee-bar clip at the third bolt. Cross through to the fourth bolt, then enter the crux, which is.... hard. Very hard. It is sequential, powerful, off balance compression between bad holds. Expect to log some airtime figuring this one out!
The line was first envisioned and bolted by Nic Sabo, but left as an open project. Once I discovered the path of least resistance took you straight over to the arete, I chopped one bolt, placed another above, and one lower to prevent the inevitable leg breaker fall (ever seen Gaia??). With the relocated bolt and a soft catch, the falls are exciting, but plenty safe. The name comes because after my first day working the route on lead I was in pain for a full week!
Location
Arete right of Loser's Club. Shares the last bolt with Loser's Club.
Protection
6 bolts.