- Edit (TBD)
Description
"Beware the Jabberwock, my son!
The jaws that bite, the claws that catch!
Beware the Jubjub bird, and shun
The frumious Bandersnatch!"
(from "The Jabberwocky", by Lewis Carroll)
Indeed. This fine addition to Gibraltar climbs a variant passage to Broken Mirror, but still feels like an independent line. The crux possesses thrilling deadpoints, barely-positive open-hand crimps, cryptic footwork, and, should you fall, gut-stoppingbut totally safeairtime.
Start Broken Mirror from the hanging belay, mantle the hole, clip the 2nd bolt, and cast off under the roof. Once you surmount the difficulties and catch the massive jug, reach way out left and clip a bolt (at this point, Broken Mirror goes right. Don't clip the 3rd bolt of Broken Mirror, as it will just create rope-drag). I won't spoil the experience with beta, but the crux begins here. After the crux, climb up and through the belay ledge for Self Reflection and finish on SF's four bolts.
Location
Same belay as for Broken Mirror. Rap down the West Face of Gibraltar from anchors above Self Reflection. The hanging belay is located about five feet below the big "hole".
Protection
7 bolts. Bring draws (slings aren't necessary).
Routes in Gibraltar Rock
- 3Jabberwocky5.12bSport