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Peak Mountain 3

Klingon

FA Unknown (pre-1960)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route pulls through the large alcove and overhang on the left-hand side of the main Gibraltar formation.

Start next to "the Nose." Climb a crack to a large alcove. The crux of the route climbs the steep face left of the corner. The corner itself is very off-width and very hard. Pull the roof on the left side for full-value or bypass the roof to the right.

The middle of the route is marked by a large ledge. A second crux is pulling up off of the ledge onto tiny face holds (5.8/5.9). From here, runout face climbing (5.6) leads to the top of the formation.

When top-roping, be very careful. The route is almost exactly 100 feet long and the base of the cliff falls away on one side.

Protection

Gear (tiny to 4"). The top of the route is protected by a single bolt and either medium sized gear or a slung boulder.

Update: On July 6, 2006, the anchor bolt atop this route was replaced. The new bolt is a 13mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.