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Peak Mountain 3

Rat's Tooth

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Description

There are two different variations to the Rat's Tooth. I have done the center variation, described below. The squeeze chimney on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is Touch and Go.

Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.

Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9

NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.

Location

Just left of Touch and Go and One Hand Clapping, on the left side of Black Wall. The distinctive Rat's Tooth is hard to miss.

Protection

Center variation: standard rack to #3 camalot