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Peak Mountain 3

Fascination

FA Gary Allan, Max Jones, 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping.  It takes you to the very top of Black Wall.

After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay.  We started Fascination here.  You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.

From the bolted belay mentioned above move into the crack that is just right of the belay.  Climb this crack up to a slab.  The guidebook mentioned a bolt up here but we didn't see it (and found the route protected fine without it).  Not sure if we missed it or if it was chopped.  Regardless, climb up the slab to a bulge with 2 cracks.  Climb the left crack a couple feet to a horizontal break and traverse right to the flaring finger crack that angles up and left.  The top of this angling crack was the crux.  The pro here was a bit thin and flaring, offset nuts and cams are useful here if you have them.

After pulling the crux head up and right via the hand crack/ramp to the summit of Black Wall.

You can walk off from here or rappel with a single 70.  First rap takes you to Lizard Ledge.  2nd rap takes you to the start of Bliss/top of There Goes the Neighborhood.  3rd rap takes you to the ground.  There are likely other ways you can rap down.

Location

This route is located 2 pitches off the deck and is an optional finish to One Hand Clapping.

After pulling around the bulge on the second pitch of One Hand Clapping you can move immediately right to a bolted belay.  We started Fascination here.  You could also do most of Fascination by traversing in right from Lizard Ledge.

Protection

Standard trad rack from thin to 3". Some offset nuts and/or offset finger cams can be useful for protecting the flaring crux.