Goode Earth

Goode Earth

takes a choice line up a series of clean-cut dihedrals on a subsidiary buttress on the magnificent north face of Mount Goode. Thin cracks are prevalent; the gear is tricky in places, but it's omnipresent. The crux is short-lived.

This is an alpine route, so prepare for objective hazards like loose blocks, and scree-covered ledges. The first ascent was done ground-up; we tried to clean as much as we safely could, but hazards doubtlessly remain. Although the granite is extremely dense, the angular fracture pattern is very similar to that of the

North Buttress

. Croft's "overall feeling that you're not in the Valley anymore" is alive and well on this route.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 100'):

Charge up the splitter fingercrack, crimp and stem past a pinch, then follow the main dihedral left to a belay ledge among loose stones.

Pitch 2: The Green Dihedral (5.10a, 150'):

Climb the fingercrack-ridden dihedral past a ledge and all the way up to the top of the pillar.

Pitch 3 (5.10b/c, 140'):

Soar directly up the short steep fingercrack (crux) into easier terrain. Paddle up a poorly protected slab (5.7 R) then trend up and right on corners to a small belay ledge on the right. Do not get sucked in to the bigger belay ledge on the left.

Pitch 4: The Yellow Jamcrack (5.9, 110'):

Climb straight up the stepped fingercrack, aiming for the yellow-lichen-splotched clean-cut 4-5" corner directly above. Deep jams lead up to a short offwidth move, which is a breeze with proper technique and still moderate without. Continue up and right on a flakey fingercrack to a crescent belay ledge on the right.

Pitch 5 (5.7+, 140'):

Follow the right-trending crescent ramp into a scrappy right-facing corner. Step 15 feet left into a boxy feature formed by a gigantic pedestal (note: from the belay ledge above, the pedestal makes a cool photo op looking down at your follower). Pass a few more 5th-class steps and belay where the angle kicks back.

Pitch 6 (4th class, 150'):

Weave through hanging blocks to the top of the buttress.

Optional:

From the top of the buttress (~12,800'), you can scramble up the East Ridge (2nd class) to the summit of Mount Goode (13,085').

Descent:

Walk down the Southeast Slopes (2nd class) to join the Bishop Pass trail near Saddlerock Lake.

Approach as for the standard

North Buttress

route (5 miles from South Lake trailhead).

Goode Earth

ascends the second buttress to the left (east) of the North Buttress. Scramble up snow, talus, and 3rd-class ledges to the starting ledge which is spacious enough to walk around on.

Double set cams to 2"

one each 3-4" cams

optional 5" cam

single set nuts