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Peak Mountain 3

Sky Pilot

FA Croft, Lella 2014
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Scramble left from the snowfield to a nice belay spot below the North Buttress Route.

P1 5.8 200+ ft: Climb the 5.8 corner of the NB route, to a large ledge.

P2 5th class 50ft: Short easy traverse right to a nice stance, belay beneath a splitter tips crack corner and a second thin dihedral with an arching crack to the right.

P3 5.11a 90ft: Technical and superb! Start right of the splitter tips corner. Lieback a thin dihedral to the arching crack then traverse back left into the splitter tips crack corner which has widened here to thin fingers. Fixed nut anchor at a small foot stance.

P4 5.11 PG-13 90ft: Intermittent crack and a face climbing crux protected by thin gear, this bit has some friable rock crunchies. Fixed nut anchor at another small stance.

P5 5.11 100ft: Amazing alpine Splitter! Stop to smell the namesake purple flowers sprouting from the crack. Enduro 1" crux, place all the .5 Camalots you brought, avoid hyper-ventilating! Finish on cool diorite features to a gear belay on a big comfy ledge.

P6 5.7 300ft. Head up and left to rejoin the NB route, alpine ridge terrain to the summit. Killer view!

Location

North face of Mt. Goode; this route shoots up the steep green headwall (climbing right after the North Buttress 2nd pitch) for three excellent, sustained pitches, then rejoins NB to finish on the summit ridge.

Protection

2X BD Camalot .1-#2, 1X #3

4X .3 .4 .5

Set o Nuts