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Peak Mountain 3

Arete Already

FA FFA: Jim Brink and Skip Harper, 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This one-pitch climb has it all (whether you want it or not!). It starts out with a couple chimney moves, exiting with hands into OW, and continues up the shrinking crack, past a few horizontals, until it fizzles out completely. Place a good small cam and nut at the top of the crack and launch out onto the face, heading for the (last) horizontal. Traverse right at the horizontal (with gear) and finish up with what is now

Braggin'

. It has excellent stone all the way.

(Guidebooks say the first ascent was done prior to any bolts being in place - but do not list the first ascentionists.)

Location

Start in the crack between

Braggin'

and

Sketch Palsy

. The crack is very wide at the bottom and fizzles out to nothing just under the last horizontal crack on the wall.

Rap from

Braggin'

. A 60m rope just barely makes it - WATCH THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE.

Protection

Rack from 1/4" (nuts) up to 5" ("new" #5 Camalot) with a few longs slings to reduce rope drag on the traverse and draws for the bolts on Braggin'. Doubles on 3"-5" cams if you want to sew it up.