- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is one of those Voo, anti-classic, but Type 2 kinda classic route. It has high histoplasmosis risk and moderate rabies risk. You gotta
guan
it.
Start with a mantel up on gritty ledge near past an reddish, quartz dike to an obvious, undercut flake. Work this to the right until you can access the long, horizontal crack.
Powerjam this horizontal fissure straight left for 30', passing through a wide section with kneebar/invert through the poo. A crux move comes - an invert & pivot (can also be done with core intensive kneebars), then grab a big block of dried dung, and exit the wide. Try not to get bit by a bat when you invert.
After this section, a 1" foothold provides stance enough to shake out and switch ropes (to mitigate drag). Pump through seasonal green slime on fists and licheny feet to access the meat of the route - a very pretty overhanging hand crack that climbs really nice. Fire this, and you are mostly done....
An easy but unbolted face guards the top. A fall from the very top might be fatal, but I propose an R rating with a good belayer. If you've made it this far, you probably wouldn't fall...one would certainly hope.
If anyone wants to take the R out and put in bolts to make this route safe, that is fine with the FA team.
2 rope technique is recommended.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bat_bomb
.
You will want some hand wipes after this stinker. Contender for Voo's crappiest route.
Location
This is on Blair III, on the SW corner. Look for the striking overhanging hand crack about 34' off the ground, 100 yards to the right of near where you can scramble up the formation. Then look at the 42' horizontal crack you need to do to access the overhanging hand crack. There is a reddish dike angling up and right at the start. Another obvious marker is the widest part of the horizontal crack with a rather large (3.5 foot) block of guano hanging out (crux).
Protection
A full rack to 6". There are no bolts on top, it's an easy scramble off to climber's left. Feel free to add anchors and a bolt on the runout face.
Routes in Lower Blair III
- 31Bat Bomb aka Project X-Ray5.11dTrad