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Peak Mountain 3

Bird of Prey

FA Al Pisaneschi & Paul Paul Boisoneault (BASE)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Yes, you're seeing the pitch count correctly. And yes, the route length is about accurate as well. It's a safe well-bolted, six-pitch 5.11 (5.9 A0 no less). Bird of Prey is the single closest thing I've seen to a modern classic in this state, and sure to be a crowd pleaser. The route weaves its way through natural features on the big wall of Owl's Head in a way that makes it feel more like a Yosemite route than anything else in the area (except all the bolts). P1. Climb up a line of bolts up a right facing flake o an overlap with a fixed nut. Belay at a two bolt anchor above the overlap. 5.9P2. Friction Crux! Weave your way in an Z off the belay through the pitch, which involves some utterly desperate friction climbing in the middle. Fortunately the crux is only a few moves and is easily passable at 5.9 A0, and the pitch itself is relatively short. 5.11 (5.9A0)P3. Climb up to some overlaps and pass a rap station. From the rap station head out right, clip a bolt and pull over a small roof to reach the belay. 5.9P4. Au Naturel! Weave your way up a smooth through bolts, when the features end, take a look down and to the left where you'll find more bolts. Wow! do some thoughtful 5.8 sideways downclimbing to find yourself following the next feature to a two bolt anchor under an overlap. 5.9P5. Pull over another overlap and slab your way up to the thinnest biggest potato chip flake ya ever saw. Fortunately there's bolts! climb up this thing to some more friction and another overlap leading to a two bolt belay right of a tree. 5.9P6. Follow the line of bolts to a two bolt anchor. Very friction. Wow! 5.9Rap the route with a single 70m rope. Knot the ends!

Location

Bird of Prey may be the most easily found route on the entire wall. There's tons of bolts. Locate the basically sport bolted first pitch, and go up from there. 

Protection

single rack to #2, Long slings