- Edit (TBD)
Description
Tachycardia is one of the best lines on this cliff. Not just that, Tachycardia is one of the best multipitch routes in the state. Overstatement? Maybe not? Go find out! It is well protected in all the hard parts, but keeps you on your toes for the more "mellow" bits. The route follows mostly solid beautiful features through improbably good climbing that is sure to excite any climber. Find the climb by locating 3 close to the ground bolts that look kind of weirdly placed. Don't worry, they're actually perfect for the route.P1. Slab climb your way through an exciting and weird traverse via bolts to access a somewhat chossy corner that leads to a two bolt anchor at a good stance. If this pitch feels like 5.11 just remember that sometimes up isn't always the easiest way to climb. Bring your bravery for the finish, the gear is decent but small. 5.10-P2. One of the money pitches of the cliff. Crimp and edge your way up an amazing white dike of quartz following ample bolts. When the fun dike runs out put your serious climbing face on and navigate your way to a two bolt anchor below a roof directly above you. Be careful what you decide to put gear behind. The bolts are at a decent stance, however the stance appears to be on some kind of exciting hollow giant Jenga flake fuckery. 5.10+ P3. Also the money pitch. It's safe, but cheek-clenching. Straight off the belay negotiate your way over a roof with a bolt for pro. Once over the roof head left towards a bolt, then friction traverse left (crux) with sphincter-tightening exposure. Clip another bolt and run it out on easier terrain to the anchor above. 5.11P4. Route finding crux, not the hardest pitch, but the one you could get lost on. Go off the belay and left towards a scary overlap with not that great of pro. Then quest into the slablands trending up and to the left to find a two bolt anchor under the headwall. 5.10Congrats, you made it! That was just scary and fun enough to be memorable, wasn't it?Now rap Bird of Prey with a 70m.
Location
Find the 3 bolts close to the ground that look weirdly placed, follow them up and into a corner below a two bolt anchor on top of a white pillar.Also easily identifiable by the obvious white quartz dike that goes up and left off of the first pitch anchor.
Protection
standard owls head rack (singles to #3, extra small stuff and brassies)
Routes in Big Wall
- 7Tachycardia5.11Trad