- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start out of the woods and climb the thin crack watching carefully for loose feet. There is a thin hands to fingers crux that would be hand-size dependent but felt 9+ to me. The rest of it is about 8 or 9 with a few crack boulder problems. Watch the loose blocks and have your second bring a hammer and knock some of that stuff off. Kinda of a cool route for where it is and would make a nice warmup for
Psychostematic
if it were cleaner.
I could probably have belayed from the large tree/bush to the right but opted for the comfort of the
Psychobabble
belay anchors. This gives you some rope drag though.
Definitely reinforcing the realization that the
Psychobabble Wall
is one of the crown jewels of BCC.
Location
This route is actually below the
Psychobabble Wall
and follows the thin-ish crack system below
Rock Capades
. It's on the right of the underside of a fin of rock that is most easily seen from the meadow or on the
Bumble Bee Wall
.
Protection
TCUs through #1 Camalot, nuts, a few long draws