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Peak Mountain 3

Rock Capades

FA Kevin Gheen and Tom Carruthers, 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb up to a small ledge above the belay and slide a nut into the right-facing dihedral. Take your time figuring out the sequence, the pro is far from obvious, as are the holds. The crack is often too small for finger tips and the sections wide enough to stuff your tips in are occasionally teeming with Box Elder bugs. Less than intuitive underclings and crimps get you through the crux. Clip the lone bolt on the route and shoot up the dihedral until it peters out to the right. Finish up and right using a sloping crack or climb the crack to the right of the pin on

Rebel Yell

.

Rock Capades

eventually joins

Rebel Yell

and the two routes share anchors. Heady lead!

Location

Rock Capades

is the route just East of

Rebel Yell

. Belay up and to the right of the

Psychobabble

belay on a grassy ledge. Climb in the right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Bring ample RPs, brass and TCUs for the thin sections at the bottom. There is a bolt protecting the runout section. Gear up to a gold camalot will sew up the rest. Shares anchors with Rebel Yell on the left. One rope rappel.