Scary Canary

Surprised that this classic route is not in the database. A Eldorado classic with very hard and very different pitches.

Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.

Pitch 2: Start as for "

The Wisdom

" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach

Le Toit

at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.

Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".

Standard "Eldo rack" with extra "RP" for the crux corner.