Wasabe

Wasabe is the route in between

Psycho

and

Evangeline

. It starts on

Psycho

, up to its first bolt and then trends left and up past five more bolts to the base of the big roof. This first section is typical roof-route face climbing but better protected than the others (.11a/b). The intimidating roof is next, protected by two bolts and is actually much more reasonable than it first appears. Without giving away too much beta, it involves a heel hook, a dyno, some body torquing, and some intricate footwork. One key is to climb past the second bolt in the roof and reach back to clip it once you're established at the lip.

There's a bit of a span between the first bolt in the roof and the one under it, so one might want to stuff a medium cam at the base of the roof to ease any fears. (Plus, it's a ring bolt which I've never really liked in overhangs). Once past the lip an easy move takes you to a big jug and the anchor. Unless someone is following, most people just clip in here for a rest and then climb back and jump off, cleaning the draws in the roof and then lowering off the last bolt on the face. Wasabe is the best protected of the roof-routes with lots of interesting moves up the face and out a pretty big overhang.

8 bolts (6 are ring bolts) to a bolted anchor. Possible medium cam.