Tongue In Cheek

'TONGUE IN CHEEK' (5.9)

Pitch 1 (5.8):

Head up the center of the "tongue" on easy 5th class for 40' before reaching a roof-like overlap with a large knob at its lip. Clip the 1st bolt just next to the knob. Mantle the knob and climb up left then back right to reach the 2nd bolt. From here, climb a blunt riser to reach the 3rd and final bolt. Move up and right to a thin incut flake and eventually the 2-bolt ring anchor (115').

Pitch 2 (5.9):

From the anchor, move right then up to the 1st bolt. Pass the bolt (5.9) and reach a semi-grass filled crack. Climb the crack for a short ways (small wires and cams) then out left onto the slab. Clip the 2nd bolt and head up 10' (5.9) then back right into the crack. The crack is somewhat dirty but will take hand sized cams from here on. Continue up the crack as the climbing gets easier. Head up to the right edge of a large blocky corner. Locate 2-ring anchors (105'). Rap the route OR head up and right to the pinched overlap above (100'). Easy 5th with a light duty move of 5.7 before exiting off right and up on 4th class. Walk off right.

The route is located just right of 'Little Lambs Eat Ivy' and left of a large left facing black wall, on a "slender-like tongue" of rock. Access to the right side of Dusy Dome is described on the Dusy Dome page.

• (6) quickdraws

• (4) slings with carabiners

• Pro to 2.5"

• A single 70 meter rope